Saunter https://sauntermag.com/ A private guide to where to stay, eat and drink in London and Los Angeles. en-GB Saarinen's US Embassy, built to keep people out, is now a hotelhttps://sauntermag.com/a-chancery-rosewood/https://sauntermag.com/a-chancery-rosewood/The Chancery Rosewood, restored by David Chipperfield with suites by Joseph Dirand, has Carbone, Tobi Masa and a roof bar beneath Roszak's gilded eagle. At Whiteleys, Six Senses makes a hotel out of a department storehttps://sauntermag.com/a-six-senses-london/https://sauntermag.com/a-six-senses-london/The brand's first British hotel takes a quarter of the 1911 Queensway store, whose marble staircase Foster + Partners had rebuilt by hand in Devon. The Zetter joins six Georgian houses on Sherlock Holmes's old streethttps://sauntermag.com/a-zetter-bloomsbury/https://sauntermag.com/a-zetter-bloomsbury/The Zetter Bloomsbury's garden of about 1,000 sq m, by the Rich Brothers, backs onto the British Museum, and every guest gets a coin for a drink. A Silver Lake church, once a horror-show set, is now Hotel Lucilehttps://sauntermag.com/a-hotel-lucile/https://sauntermag.com/a-hotel-lucile/Casetta keeps the stained glass and the lit rooftop cross, puts the rooms in the old church school and sends a martini cart round the halls each evening. Nieves Barragán's Legado serves suckling pig's head and no croquetashttps://sauntermag.com/a-legado/https://sauntermag.com/a-legado/In Shoreditch, the Sabor chef's largest restaurant roasts Zamora lamb in Madrid-built wood ovens. Order the Legado sandwich, two days in the making. Jeremy King brings back London's least fashionable dish, carved at the tablehttps://sauntermag.com/a-one-dish-simpsons/https://sauntermag.com/a-one-dish-simpsons/Shut since 2020, the old chess house's Grand Divan carves Devonshire rib at the table again, with railway mutton curry and Wolseley veterans in the kitchen. At Kamara in Soho, the spirits rest in Cretan clayhttps://sauntermag.com/a-kamara/https://sauntermag.com/a-kamara/The Brother Marcus founders and bartender Angelos Bafas take the old Blind Pig on Poland Street, pouring tsipouro, mastiha and a tsoureki Old Fashioned. At San Damián, Enrique Olvera makes al pastor with kanpachihttps://sauntermag.com/a-san-damian/https://sauntermag.com/a-san-damian/The Pujol chef's mariscos restaurant takes the old Atla site on Abbot Kinney, with an uni-topped rockfish ceviche and a Sunday dinner that starts at three. At Lynx, Josh Skenes treats pizza like a serious kitchenhttps://sauntermag.com/a-lynx/https://sauntermag.com/a-lynx/The Saison chef and his bar director Brandyn Tepper won a Bib Gourmand two months into this Arts District bar, where the Sudachi daiquiri uses no lime. 48 Hours, Slowly: Londonhttps://sauntermag.com/a-48-hours-london/https://sauntermag.com/a-48-hours-london/A London weekend built around three neighbourhoods, two long meals and no need to hurry. 48 Hours, Slowly: Los Angeleshttps://sauntermag.com/a-48-hours-los-angeles/https://sauntermag.com/a-48-hours-los-angeles/A first Los Angeles weekend built around three neighbourhoods and one drive a day: Silver Lake, the Arts District and Venice. Matera emptied its caves in the 1950s and has been filling them again sincehttps://sauntermag.com/a-matera-emptied-its-caves/https://sauntermag.com/a-matera-emptied-its-caves/The old town of southern Italy was cut into the rock, left behind, then reopened as hotels and restaurants. Where to sleep, eat and walk it. 11 new London hotels, most of them made from old buildingshttps://sauntermag.com/l-london-best-new-hotels/https://sauntermag.com/l-london-best-new-hotels/From the American embassy on Grosvenor Square to the Whiteleys department store, a Bloomsbury terrace and the Victorian caterers' building at the Old Bailey. 15 new London restaurants, and the kitchens their cooks came fromhttps://sauntermag.com/l-london-best-new-restaurants/https://sauntermag.com/l-london-best-new-restaurants/From Nieves Barragán Mohacho's wood-fired Shoreditch dining room to Endo Kazutoshi's Chelsea sushi counter, via the old Le Gavroche and Simpson's in the… 17 new London bars, and the ideas they are built aroundhttps://sauntermag.com/l-london-best-new-bars/https://sauntermag.com/l-london-best-new-bars/Spirits aged in Cretan clay, a counter cut from a fallen elm, a single beer on draught and a wine and vinyl room off Portobello Road. 8 new Los Angeles hotels, from a Silver Lake church to the old Mondrianhttps://sauntermag.com/l-la-best-new-hotels/https://sauntermag.com/l-la-best-new-hotels/A Presbyterian church of 1931, the Sunset Strip landmark that Starck once remade, a Beverly Hills house behind the Peninsula and a Santa Monica beach… 15 new Los Angeles restaurants, from a Silver Lake nave to a Chinatown cornerhttps://sauntermag.com/l-la-best-new-restaurants/https://sauntermag.com/l-la-best-new-restaurants/From Aitor Zabala's three-star counter on Nemo Street to Fátima Juárez's masa stall in Mercado La Paloma, by way of a former Pok Pok, a church nave and a… 9 new Los Angeles bars, from a ship in Santa Monica Canyon to a South Pasadena classroomhttps://sauntermag.com/l-la-best-new-bars/https://sauntermag.com/l-la-best-new-bars/From Josh Skenes's pizza and cocktail bar in the Arts District to the bar Christopher Isherwood put into A Single Man, by way of a margarita bar with a… Hamlet through Radiohead, a long-suppressed film restored and a Harlem director rediscoveredhttps://sauntermag.com/l-london-see-stage-and-screen/https://sauntermag.com/l-london-see-stage-and-screen/Three things to book across the next month, from a live band under the Barbican stage to a 35mm print. Three evenings of music worth dressing forhttps://sauntermag.com/l-london-see-music/https://sauntermag.com/l-london-see-music/A free-jazz orchestra in a Dalston room, English baroque in Marylebone and Handel under Wren's dome. Three exhibitions that ask something of youhttps://sauntermag.com/l-london-see-exhibitions/https://sauntermag.com/l-london-see-exhibitions/Nan Goldin at the Hayward, Amar Kanwar in Kensington Gardens and Ana Mendieta at Tate Modern. New, quiet and hidden: three London addresses for the winterhttps://sauntermag.com/l-london-see-new-and-hidden/https://sauntermag.com/l-london-see-new-and-hidden/A Victorian meat market turned museum, a reading room beside the Globe and a house lit only by candles. A cellar, a spring and a livery lunch: three ways to leave the usual routehttps://sauntermag.com/l-london-see-out-and-about/https://sauntermag.com/l-london-see-out-and-about/Rothschild wines in the Chilterns, hot-spring bathing in Bath and a roast beef lunch inside a City livery hall. London's best new restaurants are in very old roomshttps://sauntermag.com/op-london-old-rooms-reopened/https://sauntermag.com/op-london-old-rooms-reopened/Simpson's in the Strand, Hawksmoor under the Midland Grand's arches and Bonheur on the old Le Gavroche site show why reopening beats building. The best room in a London hotel has no bedhttps://sauntermag.com/op-in-defence-of-the-hotel-bar/https://sauntermag.com/op-in-defence-of-the-hotel-bar/From the Eagle Bar at The Chancery Rosewood to Hawksmoor's Martini Bar at St Pancras, the hotel bar is still where London drinks best. The new London hotels giving their neighbourhoods a reason to stayhttps://sauntermag.com/op-stay-somewhere-other-than-mayfair/https://sauntermag.com/op-stay-somewhere-other-than-mayfair/Six Senses in the old Whiteleys store, The Zetter Bloomsbury, The Newman and Hyde London City put their guests inside buildings with a past. Los Angeles is learning to walk, one neighbourhood at a timehttps://sauntermag.com/op-los-angeles-built-for-walking/https://sauntermag.com/op-los-angeles-built-for-walking/Hotel Lucile, a Silver Lake church without a car park, Lynx in the Arts District and San Damián in Venice make the case for walkable villages. Los Angeles is better when serious chefs choose to move herehttps://sauntermag.com/op-los-angeles-chefs-from-elsewhere/https://sauntermag.com/op-los-angeles-chefs-from-elsewhere/Sean Brock's Darling, Sushi Nakazawa on Robertson and Atlanta's Rumi's Kitchen show what a city built by arrivals gains, and where the claim stops. Why the counter has become the best seat in the restauranthttps://sauntermag.com/op-the-counter-seat-is-the-best-seat/https://sauntermag.com/op-the-counter-seat-is-the-best-seat/From Endo's 200-year-old hinoki bar in Chelsea to Somni's three-star counter in West Hollywood, the kitchens that matter want you close.