Robertson Boulevard is built for lunch and for being seen at it, with The Ivy's white picket fence a short stroll away. At 145 South Robertson, on the Beverly Hills border, a clean white block now holds one of New York's best-known sushi counters, and its origin story is better than most films. Alessandro Borgognone watched Jiro Dreams of Sushi, wrote down an apprentice's name from the credits, found him on Facebook and wrote to him in machine-translated Japanese, not sure he had the right man. He had. Dinner service in Los Angeles began on 13 May 2026.
From Jiro's apprentice to Commerce Street
Daisuke Nakazawa trained under Jiro Ono, the master at the centre of David Gelb's documentary, before Borgognone and his partner Maurizio de Rosa brought him to New York. Sushi Nakazawa opened on Commerce Street in the West Village in 2013 and went on to a Michelin star in 2019; a Washington branch followed in 2018, inside the Old Post Office on Pennsylvania Avenue. Los Angeles was tested first, with a month-long pop-up at The Peninsula Beverly Hills and, in 2024, a delivery concept called Hi Dozo.
A Tokyo apprenticeship, a New York legend, and now a counter on Robertson.
The room
Studio UNLTD took an underwater cavern as its starting point: a curving concrete ceiling in soft blues, a white marble counter facing a spotless all-white open kitchen, and a mural that swirls like the marbled endpapers of an old book. The ornate stools are properly supportive, the sort of detail that counts on a long evening, and a brass-framed cellar holds the wine. Sit at the counter for the full performance, or ask for a table in the tucked-away courtyard. A patio is promised. It suits an anniversary or a client dinner that wants to feel unhurried.
What to eat
The team calls its style New York-mae: Edomae nigiri in the traditional manner, seasonal, with more inventive pieces alongside. The Classic omakase is nigiri and nothing else, and the better of the two menus. Aged squid dressed with ume and shiso is the standout of the night, alongside seared goldeneye snapper and a fatty tuna of real richness. The tamago, springy with mountain yam, remains the house's most famous piece, and it should not be skipped.
Order the Classic first. The Chef's menu, served at the counter, adds hot and cold plates and pieces finished over a Japanese charcoal grill, made possible by a full kitchen. Caviar, shaved truffle and seared wagyu appear among the flourishes, and a broiled unagi glazed with Okinawan black sugar and sansho is outstanding. Both menus end with an amazake ice cream, made from fermented rice, with a chocolate tuile and cocoa nibs, dense, rich and chewy.
The honest hedge: the longer menu has misses, including a runny uni tempura and a cold soba that lacks savoury depth, and a hay-smoked skipjack whose smoke outweighs the fish. Nothing there makes this the one counter to prioritise in a city packed with omakase. The point is the rice, the fish and Nakazawa's judgement. The extras are optional.
Drinks
Beverage director Dean Fuerth built three pairings: sake, sake with wine, and a non-alcoholic route for anyone who wants a clear palate for the fish.
Dinner runs Tuesday to Saturday, with reservations on Resy. Arrive at the start of the evening, when the light on Robertson is turning gold and the marble counter sits under its curving ceiling. It is a long way from a speculative Facebook message, and the counter keeps the same idea intact: one chef, one piece at a time.
- The vibe
- White marble counter, curving sea-cave ceiling, hidden courtyard; calm and polished.
- The food
- Edomae nigiri with a charcoal grill option; tamago with mountain yam; amazake ice cream.
- The drink
- Sake, sake and wine, or non-alcoholic pairings by Dean Fuerth.
- A tip
- Book on Resy; the Classic nigiri menu is the pick; ask for the counter.
